The Malbec grape variety is recognizable by its dark color and red fruit aromas. Although endemic to South-West France, it is very common throughout Argentina in South America. We head to the Maipù vineyards near Mendoza where our special envoy Valentin embarked on some Argentinian Malbec wine tasting.
Touchdown in Buenos Aires, Argentina
Before putting down roots in the beautiful city of Bordeaux, the desire to spread my wings and explore drew me across the Atlantic to the land of gauchos and Malbec: Argentina. Freshly graduated with a bachelor’s degree in wine and spirits marketing, in December I found myself in the bustling metropolis of Buenos Aires.
Surprisingly, it wasn’t as much of a shock to the system as I had expected, considering I was more than 10,000 km from France. The European influence is immediately evident as soon as you set foot in the Argentinian capital, particularly that of France and Italy.
A few days is all you need to gently ease yourself into the new country, particularly the very distinct Argentinian accent. The uninitiated who are used to Castilian Spanish spoken in Spain may well be bewildered by the type of Spanish spoken by the Porteños, as they are known locally.
Little by little, I gradually became accustomed to the local rhythm and cuisine. The asado, the Argentinian barbecue, ever revered by the locals, is ubiquitous in all restaurants. The richness and diversity of Argentinian wines was already piquing my curiosity and taste buds, with the first glasses of Malbec accompanying beef steaks and empanadas.
Onwards to the province of Mendoza
I’m not here to remain in the extravagant capital, but to venture further afield to the great Argentinian terroirs, primarily located in the province of Mendoza and around its capital of the same name. This next step was no mean feat, with Buenos Aires located on the eastern coast by the Atlantic Ocean and Mendoza on the complete opposite side of the country in the west, at the foot of the Andes.
Cue a 14-hour bus ride traversing the entire country. Dry, arid landscapes painted the way to Malbec country.
Exploring the vineyards of Maipù
A whistle-stop tour ensued. My first stop wasn’t the province’s capital but its vineyards, more specifically the Maipù region, which is about 30 minutes from the city center. I would be spending the first two weeks of my adventure with Christian, with whom I would be staying and whom I had contacted in advance via a volunteering website. Christian runs a wine bar in the small district of Coquimbito, along the wine trail, where many visitors hire bikes, hopping from vineyard to vineyard.
The perfect place to familiarize myself with the local wines. Maipú is a historic wine region in Mendoza, at an altitude a little lower than Luján de Cuyo and the Uco Valley, the two other renowned Argentinian wine regions. The climate is warm and dry. Malbec reigns supreme here and makes up the majority of vines.
Maipú has a long history of winegrowing, dating back to colonial times. The first vines were planted in the region at the beginning of the 19th century, after Argentina gained independence. It was primarily Spanish monks who introduced winegrowing to the region.
It was also in Maipù where some of Mendoza’s first commercial wineries were established, which played a key role in the rise of Argentina’s wine industry.
Tasting Argentinian Malbec
And this becomes very evident as I hop on my bike and set about exploring the first big names in the Mendoza wine region: the Trapiche, La Rural and even Casa El Enemigo wineries.
There, I tasted Malbecs that were rich and complex, with notes of ripe black fruits. Due to the wide temperature range (the difference between daytime and nighttime temperatures) the Malbec from Maipù has a good balance between acidity and tannins, which is sometimes lacking in Malbecs produced in other terroirs.
Harvest time in Maipù
After spending two weeks at a wine bar called La Botella in Coquimbito, it was now harvest time. So, I found myself grape picking, still in Maipù. It had been a very hot summer, so the Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes were harvested (by hand, of course) when perfectly ripe.
The evenings were spent in the charming little bodega Carinae, which was at the time run by Brigitte and Philippe, a French couple. It was a place where locals and other travelers like myself would share stories over asados and fine wines from the rich local terroir, leaving me with memories that will last a lifetime.
Lujan de Cuyo and Uco Valley vineyards
With the harvest now finished, I spent several days discovering the other regions in the province of Mendoza. First, Lujan de Cuyo, then the Uco Valley, the latter being known for its awe-inspiring landscapes: vines set against the backdrop of the snowy peaks of the Andes mountains which provide much-needed water for the vines. Nothing short of breathtaking!
An impressive sight that naturally translates into interesting wine. Located at higher altitudes (between 1000 and 1500 meters), Argentina’s Uco Valley is renowned for its fresher Malbecs with high acidity and more floral and mineral aromas. The lower temperatures and the fresh nights help preserve the aromas and acidity.
Back to Buenos Aires
The end of my Argentinian wine-tasting adventure is fast-approaching. After a few nights in the city of Mendoza, I headed back to Buenos Aires.
Unsurprisingly, after visiting iconic vineyards such as Diamandes, Rutini and the legendary Catena Zapata, my suitcases really felt the weight of the bottles I’d accumulated as souvenirs from my fabulous Argentinian journey. They make a welcome comfort when feeling nostalgic for this beautiful country.
A few years later, the memories of that trip remain fresh in my mind and I highly recommend visiting these distant lands to see for yourself.
Hasta luego Argentina!
